We tasted this wine during dinner at a restaurant in the center of Chisinau. The Burgundian meat with this wine gave the delicious meal a truly pleasant experience.
Pinot Noir is undoubtedly one of the oldest and genetically most important grape varieties. Its origin is associated with Burgundy in France, where it has been grown for centuries and has become the basis of the most important red wines in this area. It is a variety that is relatively difficult to grow and sensitive not only to climatic conditions, but also to diseases and the harvest date. Its great advantage is its ability to very accurately express terroir – the nature of the soil, climate and specific location of the vineyard. It is a variety that has gradually spread to practically all major wine-growing regions of the world. In the Republic of Moldova, it is grown mainly in cooler, suitably located locations and is among the international varieties that can well complement the traditional assortment of Moldovan blue varieties. In the Codru region, Pinot Noir is listed among the important blue varieties, along with Fetească Neagră, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Pinot Noir arrived in Moldova during the 19th century, during the period of intensive modernization of viticulture in the then Bessarabia. In the second half of the 19th century, French varieties such as Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Aligoté began to be planted there on a larger scale. Pinot Noir became established mainly in the central part of the country, where it was planted on relatively large areas in the aforementioned 19th century. However, its development was interrupted by phylloxera, which destroyed a significant part of Moldovan vineyards at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. After the restoration of viticulture using grafted rootstocks, Pinot Noir gradually returned to Moldovan vineyards and today it is among the registered international blue varieties grown in the Republic of Moldova.
The Divus winery is one of the younger Moldovan wineries. It was established in 2020 in the village of Vorniceni in the Strășeni district, approximately 35 kilometers from Chişinău, on the site of the former wine-making complex “Vinpunkt”. The new winery was not created on a completely green field, but built on the existing vineyard and cellar facilities. The historic cellars are over 60 years old and still represent part of the winemaking facilities. Andrei Știrbu is behind the winery and its development, while oenologist Vasile Bratu is involved in the creation of wines. From the beginning, Divus has focused on varietal wines, smaller batches and experimentation not only with different varieties, but also with technologies. The vineyards and winery are located in the Codru wine region, one of the most important Moldovan wine-growing areas. The location of the winery itself is also interesting. The Codru region is located in the central part of Moldova and is characterized by a rugged relief, many valleys, slopes and forests. The vineyards are located at an altitude of approximately 150 to 400 meters above sea level. The region has a mild continental climate, warm and long summers and relatively low rainfall. A significant element of the terroir is also black soil, which makes up approximately 62% of the region’s soil cover.
Divus today works with a relatively wide range of varieties. In addition to Pinot Noir, the red varieties include Rară Neagră, Fetească Neagră, Saperavi, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Syrah. The white varieties are mainly represented by Fetească Albă, Fetească Regală, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Viorica and Rkatsiteli. According to the winery, the total range includes up to 19 varieties on approximately 25 hectares of vineyards.
In the case of the Divus Pinot Noir 2021, it is a varietal wine made from 100% Pinot Noir. The winery uses the potential of the variety a little differently than we would expect from a light young Pinot Noir – the wine was aged for five months in French oak barrels, which added another aromatic and structural layer.
Here is the description of the wine:
Pinot Noir 2021 has a lighter ruby color. The transparency and higher luminosity are typical for Pinot Noir and distinguish it from varieties with a significantly high concentration of dyes, such as Saperavi or Cabernet Sauvignon.
The aroma is built primarily on red fruit. Tones of cherries and raspberries appear, complemented by darker cherry fruitiness. Five-month maturation in a French oak barrel added subtle vanilla and spicy tones. An interesting part of the aromatic profile are the earthy and mushroom tones that Pinot Noir naturally accepts well and which also support its autumnal character. A subtle hint of hibiscus also appears in the aromatics.
The wine tastes very elegant. The red fruit follows the aromatic expression, while cherries, raspberries and darker fruit tones appear. Oak aging has given the wine a subtle vanilla and spicy note.
The structure is based on fresh acidity and soft tannins. Pinot Noir remains a typical representative of the variety – the wine has a medium-full body, adequate structure and a longer fruity-earthy finish. At the right temperature, its character is better expressed than when served too warm.
Alcohol is 13% vol.
The recommended serving temperature by the manufacturer is 16–18 °C. At a temperature of around 16 °C, freshness and fruity character are better preserved, while at 18 °C, more earthy and oak tones stand out.
Pinot Noir 2021 is suitable for dishes that do not need a very robust red wine. A good choice is roasted or grilled poultry, duck, rabbit, veal or more delicate cuts of beef. Due to its fruitiness and acidity, it also works well with mushroom-based dishes, such as mushroom risotto or pasta with wild mushrooms. It is also interesting to pair it with soft to medium-aged cheeses. A less traditional but practical combination can also be a dish with softer meat ingredients. Recommendations for this wine include beef steak, pizza and cheese.
Divus winemaking also receives international awards – for example, the Divus Ornis 2021 wine won a silver medal at the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles 2024.
Pinot Noir 2021 from Divus is an interesting example of how the international Pinot Noir variety can manifest itself in the local terroir. This is not a wine built on power and high concentration, but rather on a combination of fruitiness, freshness, fine tannins and earthy character. The five-month aging in French oak barrels added another layer to the wine, but did not completely suppress the varietal character. It is the combination of red fruit, cherries, soft mushroom and earthy tones with a subtle influence of oak that is its most interesting aspect.
In the context of Moldovan wine, this Pinot Noir 2021 is a good example of the current orientation of young Moldovan wineries towards varietal wines, which do not want to stay only with traditional Moldovan varieties. Pinot Noir here shows that Codru may not be interesting only for aromatic white wines and sparkling wines, but can also provide space for elegant red wines with varietal character.
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