I bought the wine at the vintage in Rača 2025, where we met, tasted burciak, we ate roasted duck with stewed sweet red cabbage, or a burger with fried meat with it. I got a tip about this wine, so I bought it directly from the producer.
For the readers, I will clarify what “Burciak” actually is – it is partially fermented grape must in the initial phase of alcoholic fermentation. It contains natural residual sugar, active yeast, carbon dioxide produced by fermentation and a low to medium alcohol content (usually 1–6% vol. depending on the stage of fermentation). It is a microbiologically alive product with a very limited shelf life, which must be stored at a low temperature and consumed fresh. Burciak is traditionally drunk in Central Europe during the grape harvest. Its most prominent position is in Slovakia, the Czech Republic (where the term “burcák” is legally defined), Austria (under the name “Sturm”), Germany (“Federweißer”) and Hungary (“Murci”). Consumption is exclusively seasonal and is tied to the grape harvest period, usually from the end of August to October, depending on the climatic conditions of the given year. I would also like to point out that not every digestive tract can withstand the intake of a large amount of active wine yeast of such a drink without an adequate rapid reaction, so a beginner should start tasting it in small quantities and definitely be near free toilets.
The Devín variety is one of the modern Slovak must varieties. It was bred in 1958 at the Viticulture and Wine Research Institute in Bratislava by crossing red Tramin and redwhite Veltliner. The author of the breeding is Mrs. Ing. Dorota Pospíšilová, CSc., who, in addition to Devín, also bred the Dunaj, Hron, Rudava and Váh varieties. The Devín variety is named after Devín Castle, a dominant feature above the confluence of the Danube and Morava rivers, which symbolically underlines its domestic origin.
Tramín brought aromatics, spiciness and higher extract to the Devín variety. Veltlín red and white added structure, freshness and the ability to mature. Devín is today an established part of Slovak vineyards and is among the varieties that represent the authentic character of the Slovak terroir. In the grape selection category, it can offer a more concentrated aromatic profile and fuller body, while retaining the typical varietal spiciness.
Villa Vino Rača continues the wine-growing tradition of the Bratislava district of Rača, where viticulture developed in the Middle Ages. Rača has long been known mainly for its blue varieties, but aromatic white wines find suitable conditions here thanks to the loess and clay soils of the Little Carpathians.
Contemporary winemaking combines regional tradition with modern grape processing technology. The Exclusive edition represents a selection of wines from high-quality raw materials with an emphasis on purity of expression, controlled fermentation and stability in archival potential. In the case of the 2024 vintage, it is a wine with the attribute of grape selection, which means higher sugar content of the grapes at harvest and the assumption of higher aromatic concentration.
Here is the description wine:
The color is light yellow with a golden hue, of medium intensity.
The viscosity is indicated by a slower flow down the walls of the glass, which corresponds to a higher extract and a semi-dry style.
The aroma is typical of the variety and clean. It is dominated by tones of meadow flowers, rose petals and fine nutmeg. Ripe apricot, pear and a hint of honey appear in the background. The aroma is medium to intense, without disturbing tones.
On the palate, the wine feels fuller, with harmonious residual sugar, which is balanced by fresh acidity. The fruit expression copies the aromatics – apricot, yellow fruit, a delicate citrus line. The spiciness of Tramin is manifested mainly in the aftertaste, which is medium long and clean. The structure is compact, the wine feels balanced and technologically precisely processed.
The alcohol content is at 12.5% vol., which corresponds to the grape selection category and supports the fuller character of the wine.
The optimal serving temperature is 10 – 12 °C. At a lower temperature, the freshness and acidity will stand out, while at a slightly higher temperature, the aromatics and spicy character of the Devín variety will open up more.
In a gastronomic context, this Devín is suitable for mildly spicy Asian dishes, poultry with fruit sauce, roasted pork, or semi-hard cheeses. Thanks to its semi-dry style, it can balance the mild spiciness and sweet elements in the dish. It is also interesting to combine with foie gras or duck liver terrine, where sugar and acid create a harmonious contrast.
The Villa Vino Rača winery received the “Winery of the Year 2025” award and has been participating in domestic and international competitions and evaluations for a long time.
Devín 2024, Exclusive from Villa Vino Rača represents a modern expression of the Slovak autochthonous variety in the grape selection category. It offers a clean aromatic profile, balanced semi-dry expression and good gastronomic usability. For lovers of Slovak white wines, it is a representative example of how Devín can combine aromaticity, structure and regional character into a harmonious whole in a favorable vintage.
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