I had originally intended to write about a Tunisian Shiraz, but after opening and tasting it – which confirmed my initial impression – I changed my mind and decided to focus on the Codru wine from Moldova.
Codru is one of the most renowned wines from the Cricova winery and also bears the name of one of the Republic of Moldova’s most significant wine-growing regions. The 2022 vintage is a dry red wine from the “Vintage” line, based on the classic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the world’s most important red grape varieties. It originated in Bordeaux, and genetic research has confirmed it to be a natural offspring of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. Its presence in Bordeaux has been documented since at least the 17th century. It is characterized by late ripening, high tannin content, and intense color. Aromatically, it offers notes of blackcurrant, dark berries, and spice, while aging introduces nuances of tobacco, vanilla, and wood.
Merlot is another traditional Bordeaux variety that is now grown in virtually all major wine-producing countries. The earliest known written reference to the variety dates back to 1784, when it was recorded as “Merlau” in the Libournais region. The name “Merlot” appeared in the early 19th century and is likely linked to the French word for the blackbird, a creature fond of the ripening berries. Compared to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot generally features softer tannins, more fruit-forward characteristics, and a fuller, rounder profile. When blended with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon primarily contributes structure, tannins, color, and aging potential. Conversely, when blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot softens the latter’s structure and adds notes of cherry, plum, and dark berry fruit.
The Codru area is a central wine-growing region of Moldova and ranks among the country’s most important regions. Vineyards here are situated mainly on rolling slopes at altitudes of approximately 150–250 meters. The climate is milder than in Moldova’s southern regions, and the combination of slopes, forests, and day-night temperature fluctuations helps preserve acidity and aromatic freshness in the grapes.
Both white and red grape varieties are typical of the Codru IGP. Notable red varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Fetească Neagră, Rară Neagră, and Shiraz. While the region is best known for its white and sparkling wines, it also produces red wines characterized by an elegant structure and pronounced fruitiness.
The history of Cricova began in 1952, when former limestone mines were converted into winemaking facilities. The decision to utilize these underground spaces was driven primarily by the need for stable conditions for wine maturation and storage. Even before the winery was officially established, experiments with wine aging had been conducted in the underground tunnels, and the results demonstrated the benefits of stable temperature and humidity.
Today, the Cricova underground complex stands as a symbol of Moldovan winemaking. The tunnels span a total length of approximately 120 kilometers, reaching depths of up to 80 meters below the surface in some places. However, as I mentioned in a previous article about visiting Moldova, only about 80 kilometers are currently in use. A natural temperature of roughly 12–14°C and high relative humidity are maintained within them year-round. The individual underground streets bear the names of grape varieties, such as Cabernet, Feteasca, Sauvignon, or Aligoté.
Cricova Winery holds a prominent position, particularly in the production of classic sparkling wines made using the traditional bottle-fermentation method. At the same time, it also produces still wines from both international and Moldovan grape varieties. Today, its underground facilities represent more than just a wine cellar; they constitute a vast technological and historical legacy of Moldovan winemaking, and in 2003, the Cricova complex was designated a national cultural heritage site of Moldova.
Here is a description of the wine:
The wine displays a deep ruby-red color of pronounced intensity with subtle purple highlights. The Cabernet Sauvignon contributes to this color intensity through its high pigment content, while aging in wood can gradually shift the hue toward garnet tones.
The aroma is dominated by black and dark red fruit – blackcurrant, cherry, plum, and blueberry – complemented by spicy and subtly herbal notes. Subtle hints of vanilla, spice, and wood have been imparted through contact with oak. The aromatic profile aligns well with the Cabernet Sauvignon–Merlot blend style, where Cabernet contributes black fruit and spice, while Merlot adds riper fruitiness and a softer character.
Codru 2022 is a dry, medium-bodied red wine with a pronounced tannic structure. The fruit profile mirrors the aromas, featuring blackcurrant, black cherry, and plum. Acidity keeps the wine fresh, while the tannins provide its backbone. Cabernet Sauvignon lends firmness and length, whereas Merlot adds roundness and fruitiness. Oak aging (6 months) serves as a complementary element, introducing spicy and delicate vanilla notes without dominating the profile. The finish is dry, fruity, and spicy, with medium length.
The higher alcohol content is consistent with the character of a wine based on the aforementioned grape varieties and supports its fuller-bodied profile. When serving, it is advisable to adhere to the manufacturer’s recommended temperature so that the alcohol does not overpower the wine and the balance between fruitiness, acidity, and tannins is preserved.
The recommended serving temperature is 15-17°C; at this temperature, the wine’s fruitiness remains more pronounced. Brief aeration in a decanter before serving can also benefit the wine.
The structure derived from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot makes the Codru 2022 an excellent match for robust dishes. It pairs particularly well with beef, roast beef, herb-crusted lamb, roasted or grilled meats, game, duck, cured meats and aged sausages, mushroom dishes, and aged hard cheeses. With heavily spiced dishes, the wine offers an interesting profile thanks to the fruitiness of the Merlot and the spicy character of the Cabernet Sauvignon.
Cricova Codru 2022 is a wine built on the classic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It does not aim to be an aromatically flashy wine, but rather embodies a style defined by structure, dark fruit notes, tannins, and the measured influence of oak aging. Its origin is another intriguing aspect; the name “Codru” refers not only to the wine itself but also to one of Moldova’s primary wine-growing regions. The wine thus effectively represents the marriage of international grape varieties with the Moldovan terroir and the tradition of aging in Cricova’s underground cellars.
The 2022 vintage is already approachable and ready to drink, yet it still holds potential for further evolution. In any case, it is a wine that a wine lover will enjoy, whether accompanying a get-together with friends, or a pleasant dinner.
#tipnavino #moldavskevino #moldovawine #cricova #vinsecrosu #codru
