Today an Italian wine. Autumn is slowly, but surely approaching, and in my opinion, red wine is the perfect choice to warm body and soul. Upon opening the bottle, a moderately intense aroma emerges, hinting at the wine’s complex character—making it ideal for relaxing, for conversation over a platter of hard cheeses, or for a simple dinner.
The Primitivo di Manduria D.O.P. 2022 wine is made from 100% Primitivo grapes. The variety’s name refers to its early ripening, a trait that distinguishes it from many other grape varieties. Primitivo is one of the signature red varieties of Puglia—a region in southeastern Italy where the warm Mediterranean climate allows the grapes to reach a high level of ripeness. The variety is genetically related to California’s Zinfandel and the Croatian variety Tribidrag (also known as Crljenak Kaštelanski). Consequently, the history of this variety is linked not only to Italian viticulture but also to vine cultivation on the eastern Adriatic coast.
A notable feature of this wine is that it comes from vineyards with old vines, aged approximately 50 to 70 years. The grapes are cultivated using a traditional Apulian training method, which the producer refers to as “Apulian sampling.” Because the traditional cultivation methods typical of Puglia (such as the Apulian Bush Vine or Apulian Pergola systems) are so distinctive, samples must be taken from various sides of the vine at precise heights; this is necessary because the distribution of sunlight and the ripening process of the grapes follow very specific patterns in these Apulian systems. The name “I Nobili,” appearing on the label, translates to “The Nobles” in Italian. It is part of the name of a product line from the Enodelta winery, which also uses the broader designation “I Nobili del Regno di Napoli” (“Nobles of the Kingdom of Naples”). The name alludes to the historical and cultural heritage of southern Italy. However, it is neither a standalone appellation nor an official wine quality classification. While old vines may yield lower quantities, they produce more concentrated grapes—though the final result naturally depends on the soil, the vintage, and vineyard management. The grapes were hand-picked and sorted, allowing for the selection of bunches based on quality and ripeness prior to processing in the cellar.
Manduria is located in the province of Taranto on the Salento Peninsula in Puglia. The region is known for hot, dry summers, a high number of sunny days, and a winemaking tradition in which Primitivo holds a special place. Soil types in this part of Puglia vary by specific location, though red soils containing iron oxides, limestone, and stony elements are common. The warm climate promotes sugar accumulation and phenolic ripeness in the grapes; in Primitivo di Manduria wines, this often manifests as a fuller body, higher alcohol content, and pronounced fruit aromatics.
The D.O.P. (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) designation stands for Protected Designation of Origin. Consequently, Primitivo di Manduria is not merely the name of a grape variety but also a wine subject to the regulations of a specific appellation. The history of the Enodelta winery is linked to the Caputo family and the Italian wine industry. Its story began in 1937, when Cavaliere Antonio Caputo established the first cellar in the town of Afragola, near Naples. The cellar utilized a traditional tuff cave, which provided optimal temperature conditions for wine storage and production. Enodelta has gradually evolved and today combines traditional expertise with modern grape processing techniques. Although the winery’s historical roots lie in Campania, its Primitivo di Manduria wine originates from an appellation in neighboring Puglia. This distinction between the producer’s location and the origin of the grapes is significant in the context of Italian wines.
The 2022 vintage, old vines, and hand-selection of grapes are key details regarding the wine’s origin and raw materials. However, these factors alone do not determine the final quality; the specific conditions of the vintage year and the processing and aging technologies employed are equally decisive.
Here is a description of the wine:
The 2022 Primitivo di Manduria displays a rich, deep red color with subtle purple highlights and low transparency—visual characteristics typical of a young red wine with intense color saturation. The purple hues, common in many young red wines, may gradually shift toward ruby or garnet tones as the wine ages.
The wine offers aromas of dark berries, jam, and spices, with a distinct note of tobacco. Its aromatic profile features ripe blackberries, blackcurrants, and plums, complemented by a character reminiscent of stewed fruit or even jam. The spicy element, combined with tobacco notes, creates a more complex profile than that of simple, predominantly fruit-driven red wines.
On the palate, the wine is remarkably complex and enveloping, boasting a substantial tannic structure. One can expect a full-bodied experience featuring ripe dark fruit and spicy notes that mirror the aromas. The pronounced tannins provide structure and a firm finish—qualities that, in a Primitivo, also contribute to a sense of fullness and maturity.
The alcohol content is 14% ABV, consistent with the full-bodied style of red wines from warm Puglia. The alcohol adds a sense of warmth and fullness without overpowering the fruit aromas or the tannic structure. The recommended serving temperature is 16–18°C. At this temperature, the fruit and spice notes are more expressive, and the alcohol does not feel overpowering. A brief decanting period before serving benefits the wine. Given its pronounced tannic structure, it is worth observing how the wine’s aroma and flavor evolve over time after opening.
The producer recommends pairing this wine with Neapolitan lasagna featuring a meat ragù. This is a logical pairing for a dish characterized by the bold flavors of meat, tomato sauce, and pasta. The wine’s fuller body and tannins complement the intensity of the ragù, while its fruity character contrasts with the dish’s savory and umami notes. Other suitable pairings include beef dishes—particularly braised cheeks or slow-roasted cuts—lamb with rosemary and garlic, as well as aged hard cheeses like Pecorino or Parmigiano Reggiano. When pairing, it is best to avoid overly delicate dishes that might be overwhelmed by the wine’s robust structure.
The 2022 Primitivo di Manduria D.O.P. from Enodelta Cantine Cav. Antonio Caputo exemplifies the style of red wine associated with the warm climate of Puglia and the traditional cultivation of the Primitivo grape variety. On the label, the producer specifically highlights the use of 100% Primitivo, hand-harvesting, grape selection, and fruit sourced from old vines aged 50 to 70 years.
The 2022 vintage thus offers an interesting example of Primitivo di Manduria, characterized by its regional origin, old vineyards, and an emphasis on grape selection.
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